Nisga'a town of Gitwinksihlkw, northeast of Prince Rupert, BC |
Nass Valley, BC |
Ferry to Vancouver Island |
Similar to last year's Bella Coola Loop, we began by driving north from Seattle, crossing over to Vancouver Island, spending the night in Nanaimo, befoew driving north to Port Hardy to catch the BC ferry. Unlike the previous year's trip, we didn't spend any time on the journey northward, pausing only to ascertain that the ferry crossing was gorgeous and that Nanaimo, with its mouth-watering bakery, would be a great place to live.
Passing by open water the first night, the seas were rough for a few hours. Because of this, the elevators were closed. Luckily, we were forewarned of this, so I made sure I was on the floor that our cabin was on. The accessible cabin on the ferry was perhaps the best in terms of accessibility that I've seen in any hotel.
BC ferry from Pt Hardy to Prince Rupert |
Hanging out on the back deck at our cabin at Cassiar Cannery |
We drove through town, picking up groceries at a large supermarket, before driving about 30 minutes on to Port Edward. After the paved road turned bumpy, we reached the Cassiar Cannery -- an old cannery that has been converted to several guest cabins overlooking the Skeena River. Each of the lovingly restored cabins is located on the shore of the river, with a deck and a view out the back.
North Pacific Cannery |
Trail to Butze Rapids |
Prince Rupert, with over 8 feet of rain per year, is Canada's wettest city. Indeed. except for a few scattered hours of sunny blue skies, it rained the entire time we were there! Due to the weather, we weren't able to tackle any of the local trails, but I did stop in at the Visitor Information Centre to ask about accessible trails. I was told that the loop trails and trail to the rapids at Butze Rapids were accessible to wheelchairs, as was the best hike in Prince Rupert -- the Rushbrook Trail. We'll have to return in the short months of summer -- when the skies tends to be less rainy -- to confirm this advice.
Prince Rupert, along Atlin Terminal |
We spent a rainy afternoon in the small downtown of Prince Rupert, exploring the views from the short boardwalk next to the (accessible) Atlin Terminal with its retail shops. We stopped for lunch and a hot drink at Cowpuccino (accessible washroom) and for information at the Visitor Information Centre (the accessible washroom had been turned into a storage closet, but the men's and women's washrooms had accessible stalls).
Skeena River between Prince Rupert and Terrace |
We then drove from Prince Rupert to Terrace in the last downpour of our trip.
Nissga'a Memorial Lava Beds |
The following day, we cast aside our plans for a day trip to Kitimat in favor of a local recommendation to head north through the Nisga'a Lava Beds. A fortunate stroke of serendipity! We've travelled quite a bit, so we've seen quite a variety of spectacular geography. This trip, however, introduced us to new and unexpected sites, stunning scenery, cultural and historical learning, animal life, and a welcome and unanticipated focus on accessibility.
Lava Beds |
Trail to Vetter Falls |
Gingolx: end of the auto tour at the Pacific coast |
I can not recommend this tour highly enough! The visitor's center, museum, and several trails are all wheelchair accessible, there are accessible outhouses and washrooms along the way, and the self-guided auto tour map designates and explains accessibility on the route. To top it off, this was our best wildlife viewing from the car. As we approached the end of the road near the coast, Ted was lamenting that we hadn't yet seen his second favorite boreal animal -- the porcupine. Within minutes, we saw three different quilled specimens waddling on or beside the road!
Telegraph Point rest stop along the Skeena River |
The next day we drove back westward along the Skeena River to see the views on a clear day. It had just snowed in the mountains, so the gold trees shimmering on a white background made a beautiful day even more so.
Exchamisiks River trail |
We hiked at Exchamsiks River, west of Terrace. This fabulous park, home to a campground being re-forested, includes a short, accessible loop trail on a mossy, partially paved road through old-growth Sitka spruce, salmon berry plants, birch trees, and devil's club plants. We took a short side-trip down to the river, with a view of a bridge, rocky cliff, and waterfall.
After the hike and a short westward drive, we turned around and went to the east again. Past Terrace we passed the turn-off for the Cassiar Highway, leading north to the Arctic Circle and flooding us with memories of adventures and beauty from the trip four years ago. It was a poignant reminder that the past doesn't always just end.
Add caption |
East of Prince George, we headed to the Ancient Forest. We had discovered this gem on our previous trip north, and I am still amazed. The accessible boardwalk meanders through old growth red cedar trees, alongside a stream. The boardwalk ends at a small waterfall, and the entrance boasts picnic tables and a shelter, along with accessible outhouses. The accessible hike was built by or with the foundation of Rick Hansen -- the "Man in Motion" from St Elmo's Fire.
Ancient Forest boardwalk |
Ancient Forest endpoint |
After our hike, we returned to the highway. We made a brief stop at the bird refuge at the Nechako Riverside Park in Vanderhoof. That was a disappointing tangent, since there were no accessible outhouses, no significant hiking trails (there was only a packed gravel trail along the water), and -- sadly -- no birds, except for crows.
Mt Robson |
We spent the night in the cute mountain town of Valemount, then we headed south.
Helmecken Falls in Wells-Gray Provincial. Park |
We tried -- unsuccessfully -- to find moose off of the side roads, and we finally drove into Wells-Gray Provincial Park, where a long road led to a spectacular view of the majestic Helmcken Falls We spent the night in Clearwater.
Othello Tunnels Trail at Coquihalla Provincial Park |
After the hike, we headed back to the US, to Seattle, to regular life, and to appointments and commitments. I'm sure we'll be back for another tour of the colors next autumn, and I have a feeling we'll be back in this magical province long before then!
Accessibility along the route
1. BC Ferries:
En Suite washroom on BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert |
Sleeping cabin on BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert |
Both the ferry from Tsawassen to Schwarz Bay and the ferry from Pt Hardy to Prince Rupert were accessible. You should tell them you're disabled (bring a card or placard to show proof) before running the transaction to buy tickets, in order to receive a discount. Then, hang your disabled placard on the rear-view mirror and flash your hazard lights to warn the ferry loaders that you have special needs. You should be parked near the elevator, with room to maneuver to and with your wheelchair, although you may need to provide them instructions on your needs. The ferries have an elevator from the car decks, which can take you to the lower passenger deck (coffee shop, gift shop, cafeteria, seating), the upper deck (inside and outside seating), and the deck with passenger cabins (Pt Hardy to Prince Rupert ferry). There were unisex, single-stall disabled washrooms at various locations. The amazing accessible sleeping cabin on the Pt Hardy to Prince Rupert ferry had plenty of room, no threshold, a triangle trapeze over one of the twin beds, a large and very accessible en suite washroom, complete with many grab bars, a roll-under sink, tilting mirror, shower with a pull-down seat and hand-held nozzle, and a toilet.
Rear deck on BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert |
Public washroom on BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert |
2. Accessible outhouses:
Accessible outhouse with ramp at Telegraph Point rest stop along Yellowhead Highway |
"Accessible" outhouse (if you can get there/in) at Coquihalla Canyon Provincial Park |
3. Accessible washrooms: Accessible washrooms were relatively available, although they varied widely in meaning. Good bets are museums, visitor's centers, gas stations, restaurants, and cafes.
Large "accessible" stall without bars at North Pacific Cannery |
Accessible washroom at Cowpuccino Cafe in Prince Rupert |
4. Lodging: Most tourist towns had at least one accessible room at some hotel, although it required research, advance booking, and direct phone calls to book one (even with all of that, at one hotel, a "definitely" ours accessible room had been given away by the time we arrived!). Here's where we stayed on the trip:
Ferndale, WA
Super 8
ADA room with high bed and space beside it
Large bathroom had toilet with horizontal grab bar, shower/tub combination with bars, a wheel-under skink
Super 8
ADA room with high bed and space beside it
Large bathroom had toilet with horizontal grab bar, shower/tub combination with bars, a wheel-under skink
Nanaimo
Grand Hotel (north of town)
Wheelchair accessible room was not available, but clerk offered available room, which was partially accessible. Entrance had no steps and wide doors. Bed was low (same height as wheelchair), with space beside it. Bathroom had short horizontal and vertical bars by toilet, walk-in shower with built-in bench and built-in shower head above.
Prince Rupert
Cassiar Cannery (Port Edwards)
Research shows that there were accessible hotel rooms in hotels at the Crest Hotel and the Inn at the Harbor. We chose to stay out of town at the cabins of an old fish cannery. Each cabin an amazing view, with a deck overlooking the Inverness Canal. The owner had a great attitude toward making things accessible, taking out the bathroom vanity and removing the bathroom door to allow a wheelchair to enter and reach the toilet, and building a small ramp to get to the boardwalk that led to the cabin across the marsh. Unfortunately, the bed was super-high. The owner claims that he will soon renovate one of the cabins to be completely accessible. The location is beautiful, as long as you like the noise of passing trains!
Cassiar Cannery (Port Edwards)
View from back deck of cabin at Cassiar Cannery |
Ramp across marsh to cabin at Cassiar Cannery |
Research shows that there were accessible hotel rooms in hotels at the Crest Hotel and the Inn at the Harbor. We chose to stay out of town at the cabins of an old fish cannery. Each cabin an amazing view, with a deck overlooking the Inverness Canal. The owner had a great attitude toward making things accessible, taking out the bathroom vanity and removing the bathroom door to allow a wheelchair to enter and reach the toilet, and building a small ramp to get to the boardwalk that led to the cabin across the marsh. Unfortunately, the bed was super-high. The owner claims that he will soon renovate one of the cabins to be completely accessible. The location is beautiful, as long as you like the noise of passing trains!
En suite bathroom at Sandman in Terrace |
Terrace
Sandman
Queen bed was not not too high, with space to put wheelchair next to bed and get everywhere
The bathroom had a toilet with a horizontal bar one one side and a floor-to-ceiling pole on the other, and a tub/shower combination with hand held shower, shooter stool, and bars.
(This is the room that had been given away our first night)
Smithers
Sandman
Queen bed was not not too high, with space to put wheelchair next to bed and get everywhere
The bathroom had a toilet with a horizontal bar one one side and a floor-to-ceiling pole on the other, and a tub/shower combination with hand held shower, shooter stool, and bars.
(This is the room that had been given away our first night)
Smithers
Sunshine Inn
Accessible hotel with auto door and accessible room
Good height queen bed, with space beside bed and all over for wheelchair
Bathroom had roll-in shower with fold-down chair, hand-held shower, and bars; also toilet had horizontal bar on one side and vanity on other.
Prince George
Super 8 (north part of town)
Wacky tiki-themed first floor, with small pools and small kids, tropical plants, was dark, stuffy, and tired
Wheelchair accessible room had a perfect height queen bed, with space for a wheelchair beside it
Large bathroom had a vertical angled and horizontal bar beside toilet, and a walk-in shower with hand-held shower, fold down seat, and several bars (although they may have all been high)
Valemount
Super 8
Big room, king bed, space for wheelchair
Wide door to large bathroom, with roll-under sink, shower/tub combination with one angled bar, and toilet with no bar on either side.
Clearwater
Clearwater Lodge
Automatic door and inside ramps, leading to front desk, accessible washrooms, and 2 accessible rooms -- large, with two queen beds and lots of space by beds and in room. Large bathroom, with roll-under sink, toilet with horizontal and angled bar, and was curtained off as a no-threshold shower with shower chair and hand shower,
Hint about high beds. At one hotel (of course, I've forgotten which), the bed was much too high. I asked for a roll-away bed, which they provided, but the room was too small to set it up. So, we took off the tall mattress from the htoel bed, and instead
where did I use the mattress from the rollaway bed? it was firmer and the right height . (Terrace?)
En suite shower at Sunshine Inn in Smithers |
En suite bathroom at Sunshine Inn in Smithers |
Good height queen bed, with space beside bed and all over for wheelchair
Bathroom had roll-in shower with fold-down chair, hand-held shower, and bars; also toilet had horizontal bar on one side and vanity on other.
Prince George
Super 8 (north part of town)
Lobby at Prince George Super 8 |
Wheelchair accessible room had a perfect height queen bed, with space for a wheelchair beside it
En suite bathroom at Prince George Super 8 |
Valemount
Super 8
En suite bathroom at Valemount Super 8 |
En suite bath/shower at Valemount Super 8 |
Clearwater
Clearwater Lodge
En suite bathroom at Clearwater Lodge |
En suite shower at Clearwater Lodge |
Hint about high beds. At one hotel (of course, I've forgotten which), the bed was much too high. I asked for a roll-away bed, which they provided, but the room was too small to set it up. So, we took off the tall mattress from the htoel bed, and instead
where did I use the mattress from the rollaway bed? it was firmer and the right height . (Terrace?)