Former Yugoslavia -- Montenegro (Bay of Kotor)

Bay of Kotor from Igalo Spa in Montenegro

We hadn't even planned to go to Montenegro. We had long topped our travel list with Slovenia, and when we decided to take a trip this spring, we decided to add the more coastal and southern country of Croatia.  While reading about Dubrovnik, Croatia, I saw a description of a day trip to the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro.  Near the beginning of this description was a passing reference to the Simo Milosevic Institute -- a former sanitarium specializing in rheumatological and neurological disorders.  A little research uncovered that this institute was now trying to convert to a spa and attract overnight guests.  Perfect!  At the very least, it seemed likely that I could find accessible lodging in a region where it was turning out to be difficult (almost impossible) to find.  At the most, maybe I could even take advantage of some of their treatments.  Oh, the glories of the web!  I struck up an email conversation with a very helpful person, who made my reservations and answered my questions.  And thus, thanks to a tangential reference, the web, Ana, and the Igalo Spa, a trip was born!

Lunch on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro

In all fairness, we didn't really visit Montenegro.  We didn't hob knob with James Bond and the high rollers on St. Stephen's Island; nor did we spend time on the Budva Coast with the Russian oligarchs.  We did not even approach the interior, where the non-touristy locations exist.  A true Montenegro exploration would have required at least a couple of weeks.  We had only a few days.  We spent those fewdays exploring Igalo and the Bay of Kotor.

Simo Milosevic Institute or Igalo Spa

As I mentioned, the Igalo Spa was a former sanitarium, founded in 1949.  To this former student of Russian and East European Studies, it evoked a nostalgia for communist absurdities in at least two ways: 1. Everything was cartoonishly large.  For example, the building itself (rooms for over 1000 guests), the lobby, the cafe/bar.  2. Many things existed only "in principle."  For example, we were excited to stay in a place offering a rooftop swimming pool, an indoor swimming pool, a bowling alley, a basketball court, and a ping-pong table.  But the rooftop pool had been damaged by a recent storm, the indoor pool was empty of water, the bowling alley was closed, the basketball court had no balls, and the ping-pong balls were deflated!

Lobby of Igalo Spa

There were, apparently, many physical therapies and spa treatments available, as evidenced by the many people walking around in the hotel's white terry cloth robes (despite signs indicating that robes were not allowed in the dining room), and the long list of therapies provided by the front desk.  However, all but the aesthetic therapies required a doctor's referral (doctor on site, but appointment necessary), and it was recommended to allow at least three weeks for the treatments to be most effective, so I ended up not getting any therapy.  Most of the guests, however, seemed to be settled in for a longer-term therapeutical vacation on an organized tour.  At least one wing of the institute seemed to be taken over by Norwegian(s) and another by Dutch. The cafe/bar and dining room were open and busy (although the food was awful), and the excursion desk seemed to be organizing day trips (at least in principle!). 

The first room we were shown was in the stuffy older wing.  We moved to the newer wing, which was less stuffy and looked out onto the the trees and singing birds.  My brother and family got a three-room apartment in the newer wing, with a balcony out to the Bay of Kotor.  About half of the rooms in the newer wing had remodeled bathrooms, which were large enough for wheelchairs to turn around and had showers with no thresholds.  Unfortunately, from the room I saw, even these remodels had no bars around the toilet, and I question whether the doorway was wide enough to fit a wheelchair (in our older room, the doorway between the bedroom and bathroom was only 25" wide). The building was definitely original -- the tile floors and walls were cracking.  But I hope it survives. It's beautiful and unique.

Igalo Promenade

Igalo Promonade

Igalo is a small seaside town attached to the larger city of Herceg Novi, famous for its spas, healing mud, and summer villa belonging to Tito.   It boasts a promenade along the coast, with cafes, restaurants, and shops lining both sides, many with ramps up from the walkway.  The path's surface changes between pavement, tile, and packed gravel.

Medieval town of Perast and Bay of Kotor

"Our Lady of the Rocks" Church near Perast on Bay of Kotor

Igalo and Herceg Novi are the entry into the loop around the Bay of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.  A trip around the winding Bay offers several viewpoints of stunning cliffs which meet the clear blue waters of the Adriatic Sea.  Holding on to the limited flat land at these meeting points are the ancient and well-preserved towns of Kotor, Perast, Morinj, Prcanj, Risan, and others.  These cities carry the culture and architecture from their history of Illyrian, Roman, Slavic, Italian, Yugoslavian, Austro-Hungarian, and Montenegrin ownership and influence. Catholic and Orthodox churches and monasteries on the islands and in the towns and mountains attract pilgrims and tourists alike.

Over-development and cruise ship traffic have affected the pristine atmosphere and even endangered the UNESCO status, but the gorgeous geography and picturesque old towns continue to enchant visitors and preserve the Bay's reputation.  The narrow, one-lane roads can induce terror or a sort of driving Zen, encouraging travelers to slow down.  This was especially true for our nine-passenger van.  Usually cars cooperated, pulling over and backing up where necessary,  The old cities along the Bay offer waterfront promenades, restaurants, and cafes.  Traveling with kids (my pre-teen and teenage nieces and nephew), we also learned the prevalence of gelato.

Walls of Kotor

One of the highlight's of the Bay of Kotor is its namesake walled city.  One could walk the walls far up into the mountains above the town -- if one had legs that worked, were physically fit, and were willing to pay about $10 for the experience.  Having nobody that matched all three criteria, we spent our time wandering the cobblestone streets of the old city, looking at old buildings and churches, watching someone empty a garbage can directly into the moat (which connected to the sea), and drinking coffee at one of the many numerous cafes.

Kotor Moat

Entrance to Kotor

One of Kotor's many cats

The kids kept a running tally of healthy-looking (stray?) cats.

Inside the walled city of Kotor

The third wheel came in handy for maneuvering over the cobblestones, and a few strategically-placed ramps allowed us to wander through most of the city.  It was an amazingly well-preserved, relatively not-crowded old town.

Kotor Cathedral of St Tryphon (with ramp)

Trying to figure out how to go to the bathroom in Kotor

The only bummer -- and it was a major one for me -- was that there was absolutely no wheelchair-accessible bathroom in or around the entire city.  It was only Ted's strength and attitude which allowed me to be carried, under the watchful eye of the dour money-collecting attendant, down the stairs to the narrow stalls of the women's bathroom.

Dinner on the shores of the Bay of Kotor

We were running out of time and energy to complete the entire circuit (initially, we had entertained the idea of a loop from the city of Kotor through the mountainous interior), so we took the ferry back across the narrow part of the Bay to the town of Kamenari out of the town of Lepetani. (after going through a confusing police checkpoint).  Before doing so, however, we stopped for dinner at one of many restaurants either fronting or floating on the Bay of Kotor, where we were treated to a rising full moon, mediocre food typical of the Balkans, and tasty gelato.




Next time -- moving up to Croatia!

Big Four

The Big Four trail was about to become my favorite wheelchair hike ...  and then I hit -- unexpectedly and almost consequentially -- the first step.

View from start of trail

The first part of the hike is still one of my favorites.  Not too far from Seattle, disabled parking spaces, wheelchair accessible toilets, picnic tables, amazing mountain views, interesting route over water and bog, colorful wildflowers, waterfalls...

View of Stillaguamish River from bridge

One could make a nice loop, going over boardwalk and paved path, since the two parking lots (the picnic area and the trailhead) are connected by a paved path that was once a train track (flat).  In the middle of the loop, the trail to the ice caves leads over a bridge, which is worth the side trip for the gorgeous view down and up the Stillaguamish River from the middle.  But you will probably want to turn around on the bridge and return to the loop (see why in the next paragraph).  It's a short loop, but you could add a picnic with a view to make it a fantastic outing.

Boardwalk at start of trail

Paved trail connecting parking lots

Packed gravel trail

One step at end of
trail repair
section

If you don't turn around on the bridge, continuing up the trail to the ice caves, you will eventually be rewarded with a spectacular view.  But the steps!  The path is generally hard packed gravel, but there are a few spots near the top where the gravel becomes looser and deeper.  Unfortunately, these seem to also be spots where the trail narrows and is home to rocks and roots, adding an extra degree of difficulty.  In addition, the trail becomes a series of meandering switchbacks up a steep hill, beyond my pushing (up) and braking (down) powers.  All of this is possible with serious assistance or muscles.  But then, we must add -- did I mention? -- the steps.  The good news is that there are not stairs; they are individual steps.  The bad news is that they are often quite high (I'd say up to 6") and often on the steep parts of the hill.  They generally appear on each end of short boardwalks built within the (amazing, really) trail.  I counted ten in all.  Innocuous to hikers, they would have been the end of my hike, except for my Freedom Chair (yay, GRIT!) and my hiking partner (yay, Ted!).

View near top

If you are lucky enough to make it to the end of the short but steep trail, you join the other day trippers at a viewpoint overlooking the rock face of the Big Four, with waterfalls gushing down (probably depending on the time of year) and a large snow field fronted by a snow caves and then a boulder field at the bottom.  If you are stupid enough to explore these caves, remember that at least one person died in recent years, when the shifting snow collapsed on her.  In other words, don't do it!  However, the view is worth staring at for a while, and the cool air feels great after the effort to get there.









Trail: Big Four
Length: 2 miles there & back
Altitude: 1700 to 1900 ft; steep hill
Surface: boardwalk, packed gravel, pavement
Trailhead: On the Mountain Loop Highway, about 25 miles after Granite Falls
     First sign is for parking lot for picnic area, second sign is for parking lot for trail
     The two connect via flat, paved trail
Views: Big Four Ice Caves, bog and forest

Wheelchair Hiking article in WTA

Washington Trails Association (WTA) article on wheelchair hiking (my first article in a magazine that's not oriented toward disability and a damn good summary, if I throw out my Midwestern humility and do say so myself!):

https://www.wta.org/news/magazine/features/wheeling-in-the-wild?fbclid=IwAR1hrzug7Xpa_kLR3OEhJZDabSGW8wPRRLAxAMacnQpXN5o5odUzMYn9azY

Nisqually Wildlife Refuge

Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge

One of the most iconic Puget Sound experiences is riding the ferry from the mainland to the Kitsap Peninsula or one of the islands.  That has always topped my list of things to do for visitors to Seattle.  Now I have another iconic Puget Sound experience to add to that list: the Billy Frank Jr Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge.  And, to make it even better, the trail system is accessible to wheelchairs.

I have long wanted to visit this refuge, but the dawn-dusk opening hours never fit with my Seattle-Portland drives.  Finally, I simply made a special trip to the Wildlife Refuge (Exit 114 off of I-5, near Olympia), and met and exceeded expectations!

The Refuge provides rest for just a few migrating Canadian geese

The Refuge was created in 1974 in order to protect the mammals, birds (resident and migratory), and fish at this meeting of the freshwater Nisqually River and salt water Puget Sound.  To look closely at the wildlife, as well as at the incredible scenery, you'll want to bring your own binoculars or to rent them at the  Visitors’ Center (open Wed-Sun 9-4).  There is a a large parking lot with a $3 per car charge.  Parts of trails are closed Oct-Jan for waterfowl hunting season on non-refuge land adjacent to the trail, but the estuary boardwalk is open.  Be prepared: there are a lot of people!

GBH

Brown Farm Dike Trail

View of estuar

The Twin Barns Loop is an 1 mile level boardwalk that is entirely accessible.  It starts and ends at the Visitor's Center.  About halfway around the loop is the Puget Sound Observation Center.  This location also boasts two port-o-potties, one of which is wheelchair accessible, and it is the turn-off via the gravel surfaced Brown Farm Dike Trail to the refuge's showpiece, the Estuary Boardwalk Trail.

Estuary Boardwalk Trail

The accessible Estuary Boardwalk Trail travels one full mile over the delta.   When the tide is in, the trail runs over the water;  when the tide is out, the boardwalk runs over mudflats, with shorebirds hunting for food.   There are several pull-out viewing spots along the way, and the highlight is the Puget Sound Viewing Platform at the end, with views of McAllister Creek, the Olympic Mountains, Mt Rainier, and several Puget Sound islands.  The entire trail combination is 4.4 miles roundtrip, with an elevation gain of a whopping 10 feet!  Perhaps my only complaint is that the railings -- which I read were lower to allow wheelchair users to see over the top -- were, in fact, too high for me to see over easily.  Then again, I'm short!

Mt Rainier from Puget Sound Viewing Platform

Bella Coola Loop:Part 3 (of 3) -- Scenic Highways from Bella Coola Valley to Seattle

Bella Coola Loop

After "the Hill" and Hechtman Pass, we returned to paved roads and our way back home.  We missed most of the sights of Highway 20, because we spent too long on side-road adventures (see below).  We missed most of the stops on Highway 97, because it was (finally) raining.  And we missed most of the possibilities on Highway 99 and I-5, because we were running out of time (had to be back in the US for a B'nei Mitzvah).

What we did not miss, however, were some incredible opportunities and views by air and by road.  I would divide this part of the trip into three sections: Nimpo Lake, Tatlayoko Lake, and Lillooet/Pemberton.


Nimpo Lake

Nimpo Lake

On the other side of Hechtman Pass is the float plane capitol of Canada (or so say some ads; I have a feeling that there is more than one).  This beautiful lake is surrounded by mountains and inhabited by loons.  There are several fishing and adventure resorts situated around the lake.  Most are bustling during the summer months (and some in the winter, as well), but the area was quiet when we arrived in October.

Mats over loose gravel
Wilderness Retreat Inn

In our limited research, we didn't find any officially accessible lodging.  However, we heard belatedly that Stewart's Lodge might have accessible rooms.  The Wilderness Retreat Inn, where we ended up, had one ground-floor room that had worked with a wheelchair before.  While it was far from ideal (I had to supplement the bathroom with my own commode/shower chair, I could not use the room's back door due to steps, and I could not easily enter the inn, because of the loose gravel driveway), it was high in "can-do" attitude.  I was able to get in to the building thanks to the hotel manager lining up a series of mats on top of the loose gravel path.

Building a ramp for me
Tweedsmuir Air

The highlight of our stay -- and perhaps the highlight of this great trip -- was the flight tour out of Nimpo Lake.  As many of our guidebooks around the world state, it was"expensive, but worth it."  We flew over -- and at times, amazingly close beside -- places that were inaccessible without a plane.  We went with Tweedsmuir Air, who operate float planes out of Stewart's Lodge.    We almost had to go on the flight, because they didn't even flinch when we mentioned that I used a wheelchair.  In fact, they had recently fashioned a type of backpack to hoist a quadriplegic man up into the plane.  For me, they built a wooden plywood ramp, so that I could wheel up to the plane which was parked next to the dock on the lake.  From there, I sat on the edge of the cabin floor, and two adults lifted me into the cabin seats.  We toured over the Rainbow Range, Hunlen Falls, and the Monarch Icefields.  Until that flight, I had no idea that it was possible to fly so close to the mountains on either side or below the plane.  It was spectacular, and now I will bombard you with photos!

Coastal mountains

Rainbow Range

Monarch Icefields

Tatlayoko Lake

After leaving Nimpo Lake, we drove down another unpaved road off of Highway 20 to Tatlayoko Lake.  Our destination was another spectacular lake surrounded by mountains.  Its community park boasts one of the Cariboo District's many accessible paths -- this one made out of mining conveyor belts.  Unfortunately, this was free-range area for cattle, meaning that nothing -- including the path -- was safe from monstrous cow pies.  Nearby was a beautiful campground, complete with an accessible outhouse.

Tatlayoko Lake Community Park accessible trail

Lilooet/Pemberton

After a rainy day of driving from Williams Lake, we arrived in Lillooet, where we stayed in an accessible room at Canada's Best Value Inn.  Across from the hotel was a mountain vista, as was prevalent everywhere in that area.  After the Bella Coola unpaved roads, we exerted caution and decided not to attempt the unpaved scenic drive from Lillooet to Pemberton through Gold Bridge (although that caution may not have been warranted), but the drive from Lillooet to Pemberton on the main highway (99) was itself incredibly scenic.  We stopped in at Pemberton (the old train station has an accessible washroom), and then we drove to the Pemberton Meadows to access the unpaved road from the south end in order to catch the vistas -- which were, of course, stunning.  Next time we would do the loop from Lillooet to Pemberton on the unpaved road through Gold Bridge, especially because I read that both the Highland Cream Resort and the Tyax Lodge there are wheelchair accessible.

Pemberton Meadows

Autumn Gold

Eventually, we drove into Seattle. The trusty Prius was dirty, but alive.  Another successful Canadian adventure